Thomas F. Hornbein

Thomas Frederic Hornbein was an American mountaineer, anesthesiologist, and medical researcher best known for the first ascent of Mount Everest via the West Ridge in 1963. He also served as a professor and chairman of anesthesiology at the University of Washington and contributed to high-altitude physiology and mountaineering medicine.

St. Louis, Missouri, USA Nov 6, 1930 Wikipedia
mountaineering nonfiction biography